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Do Air Source Heat Pumps Work in Cold Climates?

By Nordic

December 09, 2015

Home Ownership

air source heat pumps cold climates
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Air source heat pumps are the most commonly known type of heat pump. In Canada, air source heat pumps have recently enjoyed a surge in popularity. It’s easy to see why: they are relatively inexpensive to install, they provide instant savings on home heating bills, and they provide both heating and cooling in one system.

But there is one major drawback of an air source heat pump: it needs backup heat in winter. Most homeowners aren’t aware of this limitation or don’t understand the science behind it. Let’s look at exactly how and why air source heat pumps need backup heat in cold climates. First we’ll start with a lesson on how air source heat pumps work.

How Air Source Heat Pumps Work

Air source heat pumps use the principles of heat transfer to heat and cool your home. They do this by transferring heat from the outdoor air into your home during the heating season via a refrigeration process. Low-temperature heat is drawn across a heat exchanger outside your home and is transferred to a refrigerant. The refrigerant then moves the heat into your home and through a compressor, which reduces the volume of the refrigerant and causes it to heat pump. The resulting heat is transferred into your home via another heat exchanger. The refrigerant, which has now cooled off, repeats the process.

The heat can be either be transferred to the air for heating, or to water for radiant in-floor heating. In the summer, the process is reversed and heat is drawn out of your home and rejected into the outdoor air.

Why Air Source Heat Pumps Lose Efficiency In Cold Climates

How much heat your air source heat pump can transfer into your home depends on the outdoor temperature. As the outdoor temperature drops, so does the heat output of your air source heat pump. Here is an example of the heat output in Btu/hr of our air to water heat pump at three different outdoor temperatures.

Outdoor TemperatureCapacity (Btu/hr)COPh
47°F (8.3°C)51,0003.86
35°F (1.7°C)43,4003.31
17°F (-8.3°C)33,9002.33

*For an ATW-65

As you can see, the heating capacity of this air source heat pump drops off as the temperatures decrease. Air source heat pumps are generally sized to produce enough heat for 80% – 90% of the annual heating load, and should be able to satisfy 100% of your heating load when temperatures are above 0°C. For example, if you had a 2,000 square foot home with a heat load of 42,000 Btu/hr, an ATW-65 (the model we looked at above) would satisfy your heat load 80% – 90% of the time. This is the minimum sizing we suggest, and you can always choose to size up for more coverage.

How and When Air Source Heat Pumps Use Back-Up Heat

When outdoor temperatures drop too low, your heat pump will need to rely on back-up heat to keep your home warm. For mini-splits, the back-up heat is usually an external type of heat like  electric baseboard heaters. For air to air heat pumps, the backup heat is in the form of electrical resistance heaters right in the ductwork, and for our air to water heat pump, the backup heat is electrical elements in the buffer tank. Here’s an example of how the backup heat process works

When the temperature in your home drops below the setpoint, stage one of your heat pump is activated to bring the home back up to the set point. In mild weather, stage one would be sufficient. If the weather is colder and stage one isn’t enough, and the temperature in your home drops a further 2°C, stage two will be activated. On most winter days, an air source heat pump running on stage two will be enough to satisfy your home’s heat load. If the weather outside is truly frigid and the temperature drops another 2°C, stage three will be activated. Stage 3 is the backup electrical heat.

It’s also important to note that when temperatures outside drop very low (for Nordic air source heat pumps -8°F or -22°C) the air source heat pump will automatically rely 100% on backup heat. This is to protect the compressor from the increasingly large temperature spread, which causes premature wear and tear. To find out how often you’ll be relying purely on backup heat in the winter, check your area’s historical averages for the previous year. For example, in Halifax NS, temperatures dropped below -22°C only three days in 2014.

Backup heat is more expensive than an air source heat pump or geothermal heat pump because it is less efficient. If you’re relying on backup heat too much (which can happen if the heat pump is too small), you heating bill will be more expensive than you’d planned, so it’s important to do your research and find out how large your system should be and when you’ll be relying on backup heat.

(As a side note, geothermal heat pumps don’t lose efficiency in cold climates and don’t rely on backup heat when the weather turns cold.)

Interested in learning more about air source heat pumps? Download our Ebook: All About Air Source: How Innovative Air to Water Heat Pumps Differ from Geothermal.

Comments

  1. Reply

    Dion Roberts

    June 01, 2017

    I am a home service provider in south coast Newfoundland and I am interested in learning more on how to install these types of systems and I want to offer the product to customers here. The heat pump market here so far is untouched and I want to learn quickly how to install and service these units.

    • Jordann Brown

      June 05, 2017

      Hi Dion,
      I recommend you watch our installation webinar: A Practical Guide to the Air to Water Heat Pump. That should give you the information you need to get started with the installation of these heat pumps. Another great resource is our product manual. Here are links to both of these resources:
      A Practical Guide to the Air to Water Heat Pump: http://content.nordicghp.com/watch-the-atw-series-training-webinar
      The ATW Series product manual: http://www.nordicghp.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/001970MAN-01-ISSUE-04-ATW-Series-Two-Stage-R410a.pdf

  2. Reply

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    August 30, 2017

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  4. Reply

    Chas

    November 08, 2017

    Geothermal systems do in fact rely on back up heat. Your side note at the end of the article is incorrect.

    • Jordann Brown

      November 08, 2017

      Hi Chas, our installation guidelines recommend the installer size the heat pump to cover the entire heat load of the home on the coldest day of the year so that it never needs back-up heat except in the case of equipment failure. Many installers choose to under size geothermal heat pumps to save on installation costs, which would require the occasional use of backup heat in very cold weather.

  5. Reply

    John

    November 11, 2017

    We recently moved to Virginia and purchased a log home that appears to be very well insulated. We have an American Standard heat pump and have it programed to set on 70 at night and at 5;30Am gradually go up to 75. The problem is that it stays on aux heat for 3 hours until getting up to 75. Is this normal? Are we doing something wrong? Just had it serviced and all is OK.

    • Jordann Brown

      November 15, 2017

      Hi John,
      I’m not sure what the situation would be with your American Standard heat pump, but if this was one of our units, my guess would be that the heat pump itself can’t satisfy that higher temperature within the set amount of time. When this happens, the backup heat automatically engages to get the home up to temperature quickly. You can avoid this by only setting the thermostat back by a few degrees, or by increasing it slowly over several hours.

  6. Reply

    Roland Alpha

    December 08, 2017

    Very interesting articles on air to air and air to water heat pumps. I’m an architect in the southern part of the US and I’m always trying to be innovative, by using innovatively designed equipment.

  7. Reply

    Andy

    December 22, 2017

    Hi,
    I live in a condo in Maine, and we installed a Mitsubishi mini split about 2-3 years ago. When the temp drops to, say, 25 degrees F (about -4C), the unit seems to perform inconsistently.

    Sometimes it will blow very warm air when both green LEDs are glowing (indicating it’s trying to warm the room as fast as it can) and other times it blows only barely warm air. In both cases, every 20 minutes or so it goes into ‘defrost’ mode where it basically idles, doing nothing to warm the house while it purportedly is melting ice off the outside compressor.

    The defrost cycles which last 10or 12 minutes are annoying, but at those times when the unit is blowing out barely warmed air, the room remains chilly (this is an open concept area comprised of living rm, dining rm and kitchen) and I end up turning off the mini split and turning on our gas boiler.

    When the installer/contractor stopped by, the system cranked out nicely warmed air… so he couldn’t see that anything was amiss. But it often blows only coolish air on similarly cold days, even when I set its thermostat on the remote to 78 degrees to push it into maximum heat mode.

    Any ideas about what could cause this erratic behavior?

    Andy

    • Jordann Brown

      January 02, 2018

      Hi Andy,
      While I can’t offer technical support on a heat pump that isn’t ours, I would assume the unit has reached its minimum temperature where it can operate effectively. When the air is cold its because the heat pump cannot harvest any more heat out of the outdoor air, and when it’s putting warm air out, it’s in backup heating mode, which is inefficient.

  8. Reply

    Omid

    December 24, 2017

    Interesting points
    I have a question. I have an air source heat pump that works up to -26 degree. If the temperature goes to let’s say -30 for some hours during the winter in some days should I turn it off or it can be stayed on all the winter?
    I appreciate your response
    Thanks

    • Jordann Brown

      January 02, 2018

      Hi Omid, we can’t offer technical support on heat pumps that are not our products.

  9. Reply

    Bob

    December 28, 2017

    Can I use my existing electric furnace as the backup? I live in Northwestern Ontario and we get as low as -40. Currently it is minus 33.

    • Jordann Brown

      January 02, 2018

      Hi Bob, using existing equipment for back-up heat is an excellent way to keep your installation costs reasonable. The only concern would be whether there is room in your mechanical room for both systems.

  10. Reply

    bob burton

    December 30, 2017

    what causes the unit to freeze and stop

    • Jordann Brown

      January 02, 2018

      Hi Bob,
      In order to answer this question effectively, I’ll need to know the model and the serial number of the heat pump. You can email this information to info@nordicghp.com.

  11. Reply

    SANDIE FLETCHER

    January 02, 2018

    I appreciate what you said Jordann about many installers choose to undersize units to keep costs down. I live on a concrete slab and I’m 66 and am very cold natured. I had a great heat system previously but age took its toll. Now I have this heat pump system that goes to auxillary heat even if i turn it up a 1 degree. So I’m having to use a space heater and my electric bill is outrageous. I’d read where a guy bypassed the auxillary mode, but I’m not that technical. Nor do I believe that would be good for the system as you’ve explained it. Thanks for your blog.

  12. Reply

    Sandie Fletcher

    January 02, 2018

    I appreciate what you said Jordann about many installers choose to undersize units to keep costs down. I live on a concrete slab and I’m 66 and am very cold natured and I don’t have carpeting. Also, my heat comes comes from the ceiling. Everyone knows heat rises. Why anyone would design a house this way is beyond me. I had a great heat system previously, but age took its toll. Now I have this heat pump system that goes to auxillary heat even if i turn it up a 1 degree. So I’m having to use a space heater and my electric bill is outrageous. I’d read where a guy bypassed the auxillary mode, but I’m not that technical. Nor do I believe that would be good for the system as you’ve explained it. Thanks for your blog.

  13. Reply

    Marcia A Loffredo

    January 13, 2018

    Thank you so much for the explanation on how a heat pump works and when and why Auxiliary heat kicks on. My husband and I are from CT and moved to TN about 4 years ago and never heard of heat pumps until we moved here. We notice that when the Aux kicked in, we had higher electric bills. So we started lowering the temp by one degree to turn off the Aux heat. But with the colder than normal weather hitting the South, it gets pretty cold in the house! We are using our gas fireplace to add heat. Again, great explanation!

  14. Reply

    Robert k Pasmore

    January 15, 2018

    Big question,at 25 degrees should I turn heat pump off and go to aux heat?

    • Jordann Brown

      January 16, 2018

      Hi Robert,

      If you have a Nordic air source heat pump, it will control the aux heat automatically, there is no need for you to worry about it at all.

  15. Reply

    Patti

    January 15, 2018

    We have a 20 x 20 room add-on mini split. We where told when we bought it that it would heat our room so hot we couldn’t stand it. Our system is now set at 86 and we have to add a space heater.
    The current temperature is 68 degrees at 2:00pm. This morning when I got up at 8:00 am the temperature was 65 degrees.

    We have complained to the company and now do not return our calls.

    According to the company we had to set our house temperature to 72 degrees and run the fan continually. They told us a ductless system is only a supplemental heating and cooling.

    Any suggestions would help.

    • Jordann Brown

      January 16, 2018

      Hi Patti,
      Unfortunately, we can’t offer technical support on non-Nordic products.

  16. Reply

    Ernie

    February 19, 2018

    In our condo apartment each unit now contains its own electric furnace. If the whole building converts to your heat pump who pays for the cost of operating the heat pump? Does each condo unit get a bill or does the condo management get one big bill that it apportions among the individual unit owners just like, say the bill for snow removal, grounds maintenance, condo manager etc? I am concerned about my neighbours turning the heat up instead of trying to save as they do now.

    • Jordann Brown

      February 20, 2018

      Hi Ernie,
      It depends on your distribution strategy. If you have a single large heat pump heating the whole building, then the cost of electricity to run the heat pump would be one big bill that is apportioned out between condo owners, similar to the electricity used to light common use areas.
      If you choose to have one small heat pump per unit, then it would be possible to only be responsible for your individual heat pump, similar to how you only pay for the electricity used in your unit.

  17. Reply

    Barry O'Neill

    February 21, 2018

    Great site,great information, our problem is we have a high efficient wood fireplace. When it is operating it is quiet warm in the large room it is in but the rest of the house is bitter cold. Temp gets down to 5 to 8 c at night sometimes in winter. Thinking of putting air handlers or something to have the house in zones to control each room independently. Do you think that might resolve the issue. Again great site. Thanks

    • Jordann Brown

      February 21, 2018

      Hi Barry,
      I’m glad you’ve found our website informative! Unfortunately, we can’t offer technical support on non-Nordic products. You should get in touch with a company specializes in fireplaces for guidance.

  18. Reply

    Gerry

    April 29, 2018

    Can your system integrate with a evacuated solar tube install?

  19. Reply

    Larry Parks

    July 22, 2018

    In 2015 my wife and I installed a 5KW PV system, which was larger than required for our use. Electric utility permits you to bank your excess generation for a year before you lose it. I installed a 12k BTU mini split to use some of my excess generation. This is a great solution for those burning wood for primary heat. We use the mini split until the season gets colder, 32°F, to maintain high heating efficiency of the mini split and then start the wood fire. This method prevents constant rekindling of fires or for us using the propane furnace.

  20. Reply

    Joseph S

    October 30, 2018

    After doing more research to verify the information offered in THIS comment: you will discover how to operate an Heat Pump.
    1 – It is unwise to manipulate the thermostat often. Those with greater knowledge state: set it to the temp which makes you comfortable – then LEAVE IT ALONE, 24 hours a day.
    2 – Setting it 5 degrees lower when ‘not at home’ then five higher (IE 70 – 75) when ‘home’ unless your system can raise the temperatures slowly – the system after a short time WILL do what ever it can to get to 75 as soon as possible – which means auxiliary heat will turn ‘on’. A nuisance to raise it by one degree until the thermometer reaches your comfort temp. setting.
    Auxiliary heat WILL cancel out any savings you would expect by programming.
    3 – If you leave your thermostat at IE. 72 degrees 24 hours a day – it allows the ‘surfaces’ in your home to warm up as well. Walls; floors, etc.
    Cold surfaces will radiate cold air whilst warm surfaces will radiate warm air.
    IMPORTANT: Once your surfaces warm up – your system will cycle less frequently and less in duration.
    4 – When the outside temperatures are at extreme….there is only so much an heat pump can do. AND if it is windy and you have air leaks in your home – only you would know how tight your home is. Tightly sealed homes are not healthy homes. Air becomes stale and can retain harmful elements.
    5 – For your comparison: my 2.5 ton 1900 sq. foot main level home [on river, 500 feet up with winds]: set temp in winter 72 degrees the return air is 90 degrees with outside temps to 32/28 degrees. The system does [still] cycle ‘on/off’. Some say their system runs continuously. Some say this is normal.
    Temps. 28 and below, Auxiliary heat – is evident at night – when the sun is not heating the roof.
    Temps. to teens and below – much more auxiliary heat.
    Without Auxiliary heat – all electric home heating season bill is (+/-) $200.00 a month. Coldest months, usually Jan./Feb – bill is $450.00. A/C per month average $160.00.
    NOTE: Homes in north eastern locales should NOT have an ridge vent – all that valuable warm air from the sun is removed immediately. An fan thermostatically controlled is best.

  21. Reply

    Joseph S

    October 30, 2018

    Set your thermostat at whatever temperature makes you feel comfortable and LEAVE IT THERE.
    Once your surfaces warm up – your system will cycle less frequently – less duration.

  22. Reply

    Duane Stewart

    October 31, 2018

    I have a Nordic geothermal ground source heat pump. A tri-function unit. An open loop system. It is a fantastic piece of equipment and I highly recommend them. I am planning on building a retirement home in a few years and selling our present 2 story home. We are planning on going completely off grid due to the cost of getting power to the home on the lake. In addition to solar we will be using propane. Do you have any system that can be powered by propane instead of electricity? Thank you for your help and keep on putting out your geothermal units, they are the best hearing and air conditioning options for anyone building new.

    • Jordann Brown

      November 01, 2018

      Hi Duane,
      Thanks for your lovely review of our geothermal heat pumps! We don’t have systems that run on propane, because the only input required to run a geothermal heat pump is electricity to operate the compressor and controls.

  23. Reply

    Gene Overholser

    December 10, 2018

    At what outside temperature does an air to air heat pump become less efficient than propane gas heat? (forced air system) Thank you!

    • Jordann Brown

      December 10, 2018

      Hi Gene,
      In terms of efficiency, an air to air heat pump will always produce more energy than it uses, usually with an efficiency that ranges from 400% to 130% depending on the outdoor temperature.
      Propane gas heat, in contrast, will never be more than 100% efficient – you will always waste some of the heat energy that is generated in the combustion process as that heat is vented out the flu.

      I think your question is actually which one is less costly to operate. That’s not necessarily an apples to apples comparison, since heat pumps use electricity and propane furnaces use propane. Both of these types of inputs have different prices (which vary from region to region) and each input yields its own amount of heat in btu’s.

      Generally, air source heat pumps cost less than propane to operate, but again, this is dependent on your local utility rates. Here is a good comparison: https://www.efficiencyns.ca/guide/heating-comparisons/

  24. Reply

    Heating and Air Conditioning

    December 26, 2018

    Very interesting und helpful article about conditioning. Thanks so much.

  25. Reply

    Andrew Aho

    March 04, 2019

    We are considering air source heat pump for our cabin. We have electric base board heat as the primary heat along with a propane fireplace. We don’t keep the cabin heated all winter. Is there and issue with turning off the heat pump when we are not using the cabin and then turning it on for the weekend?

    • Jordann Brown

      March 05, 2019

      Andrew, air source heat pumps are generally designed to keep a building at a steady temperature. It takes air to air heat pumps awhile to bring a building up to temperature, so you’d need a programmable thermostat that you could turn on via smartphone in order for the building to be comfortable by the time you got there. Alternatively you could just turn the heat pump down while you are gone.

  26. Reply

    Tedd

    October 16, 2019

    hi. i have an amana heating/cooling system. i live in pa. when i turn on the heat it runs and the temp. comes up but then it doesnt stop blowing air, and it doesnt feel like very warm air comming out. why doesnt it shut off?

    • Jordann Brown

      October 23, 2019

      Hi Tedd,
      Unfortunately we can’t offer support for non Nordic products.

  27. Reply

    tu

    February 18, 2020

    Really informative, thanks for sharing this!

  28. Reply

    Dana

    March 11, 2020

    Hi,
    We are researching to purchase an air to water (glycol) heat pump for our home with radiant floor throughout. What option/size/unit is recommended for 3,500 sq feet living in the GTA around Highway 7? Can we purchase Nordic pumps in Ontario directly, and where?

    • Jordann Brown

      March 30, 2020

      Hi Dana,
      In order to determine what size of ATW Series heat pump you’ll need, you should have an installer assess your home. Things like insulation levels and windows will affect the required heat to keep your home warm, and therefore the size of the heat pump. You can find a dealer near you by using our Find a Dealer tool on our website: https://www.nordicghp.com/find-a-dealer/

  29. Reply

    Joven Ruthford

    January 28, 2021

    I think Air source heat pumps use the principles of heat transfer to heat and cool your home. They do this by transferring heat from the outdoor air into your home during the heating season via a refrigeration process. Low-temperature heat is drawn across a heat exchanger outside your home and is transferred to a refrigerant.

  30. Reply

    cddnation

    October 17, 2021

    It’s great that you are sharing useful information.
    author, and owner of the blog https://cddnation.com/

  31. Reply

    fantaheatpump.com/product/house-heating---cooling

    August 19, 2022

    Thanks for sharing. An air source heat pump really important for home especially in cold winter time.

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